This white offers a sense of place, leading off with dusty stone and seashore aromas, followed by peach and apple fruit flavors. Marshaled by bracing acidity, this stays balanced, if lean, through the finish. Best from 2021 through 2025.

Bursting with aromas of orchard fruits, peaches and frangipane, the 2017 Montagny 1er Cru Bonneveaux is medium-bodied, ample and enveloping, with an open-knit core, moderate concentration and fine balance. It's a well-made rendition of the appellation that's seen a bit of Côte de Beaune polish in the cellar, and it will offer satisfying near-term drinking.