Floral, non-fruity hints of crushed stone and talcum powder appear on the nose of Aubert's 2021 Chardonnay Powder House, creating an attractive counterpoint to the wine's honeyed richness and intense white-peach notes. Full-bodied and silky in feel, it's a bit custardy in texture yet lithe, graceful and long, with an almost mentholated finish. There are 2,000 cases this vintage, from a Forestville vineyard planted in 2015 mainly to Hyde Old Wente, plus a bit of Mount Eden.

The 2021 Chardonnay Powder House is elegant, polished and also a touch reticent. That won't be an issue in time, but the Powder House is decidedly reticent today. Strong mineral accents are front and center, while the fruit feels pushed into the background. Mark Aubert's Chardonnays have historically aged quite well. I expect that will be the case here as well.