Though opulent and expressive, this white is also complex and displays superb balance. Boasts butterscotch, vanilla and buttered pastry elements that frame a core of peach and lemon tart, supported by well-integrated acidity. Builds almost seamlessly to the long, spice- and pastry-filled finish. Drink now through 2030. 375 cases made, 100 cases imported.

The 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Brulés 1er Cru comes from deep soils on marl, a vineyard that Antoine Vincent mentioned had to be picked on exactly the correct date due to the warmth of the soils (this was picked on 27 August). It has a discrete bouquet that demands patience, unfurling with citrus peel, crushed rock, a touch of liquorice and mint that politely remains in the background. The palate is well balanced with more weight than the Combettes, fine sapidity on the finish.