The 2021 Cantenac Brown is another fine effort from a Margaux estate that's been on something of a roll of late. Unwinding in the glass with notions of cassis, wild berries, loamy soil and cigar box, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and seamless, with good concentration, lively acids and a nicely defined finish. José Sanfins and his team opted to wait to pick the estate's Cabernet Sauvignon between the fourth and 12th of October, and that appears to have paid off. The blend is 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot, and just over half the estate's production went into the grand vin.

The 2021 Cantenac Brown is going to require time to come together. The Cabernet is pushed up. That very much comes through in the wine's aromatic profile and overall intensity. Sweet red-fleshed fruit, tobacco, incense and rose petal are some of the many notes that build. Vibrant and exquisitely layered, Cantenac Brown is quite promising. Élevage will be critical. Like so many of his colleagues, Technical Director José Sanfins saignéed the Merlots, lightly chaptalized the Cabernets and opted for longer but gentler extractions. Tasted two times

A firm and chewy red with notes of currants, bark, tea leaves and walnut husk. Medium-bodied, firm, ripe and compact. Pretty, clear fruit. Blackcurrants. 73% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot.

Perfumed black cherries and raspberries on the nose. Lovely sculpting, you get waves of juicy, bright, red summer berries and just-ripe red cherries with creamy, chalky edges. Tannins are present and linger on the tongue, gently gripping the flavours. This has great character, not too dense nor expansive, but good definition, energy and classicism with slate and crushed stone. Touch of bitter black chocolate marks the finish which is extremely attractive. Excellent job from winemaker José Sanfins.