Just about perfection in a glass, the 2017 Ermitage Ex Voto Blanc is a tour de force, offering a heavenly bouquet of white currants, quince, toasted bread, spice box, and assorted flower oil-like nuances. Deep, full-bodied, and massively concentrated on the palate, it has a distinct salty minerality, a stacked mid-palate, and bright acidity, all making for a Hermitage Blanc that needs 4-5 years of bottle age, yet will keep for two decades or more.

Lush, exotic and thoroughly beguiling, with waves of creamed peach, pear, quince and yellow apple rolling through, laced with subtle threads of quinine, chamomile and acacia before picking up a flourish of hazelnut and bitter almond on the finish. A real showstopper. Marsanne and Roussanne. Drink now through 2037

Released in February and reminiscent of the forward and charming 2007, the 2012 Hermitage Ex Voto Blanc is a huge, sexy beast that has loads of mid-palate density, full-bodied richness and terrific notes of orange marmalade, caramelized peaches, honeysuckle and rose petals. It has moderate acidity, yet I suspect will age on its extract and concentration.

Bright yellow-gold. Ripe citrus and pit fruits and pungent flowers on the powerful, mineral-tinged nose. Sappy, deeply concentrated nectarine, poached pear and honeysuckle flavors show superb clarity and pick up a suggestion of iodine with air. Smoothly melds power and finesse and finishes with outstanding energy and length, leaving behind notes of candied flowers, honey and smoky minerals. (JR)