Taking its name from the hill or Cos on which the vines are planted, this wine is dense and full of firm tannins. The fruit is there as well, ripe black currants waiting to come through the tannins. Give this wine time and drink from 2026.

The 2015 Cos Labory has a slightly muted, chalky nose that showed just a little dilution. The palate is medium-bodied and nicely balanced. I feel that nobody here has tried to compensate for the storm that affected the harvest, dialed this Cos Labory down a couple of notches to retain a clean and fresh, lightly spiced Saint Estèphe that should give a decade of drinking pleasure - even if it will not top your wine of the year list.