The 2015 Vintage Port is part of our mini-vertical this issue. As compared to its immediate siblings in this mini-vertical, this is a big step up on the 2014. Really-it isn’t far off the 2016, either. Pretty much every component is better here than on the 2014, and by a wide margin. The fruit is better here, and the concentration is better; so, too, is the structure. The texture is caressing while the acidity strafes the fruit and mingles nicely with the ripe (relatively ripe, that is) tannins. It is pure, rich, sexy and still balanced, with an invigorating finish. It’s delicious too, its lively fruit and good structure promising a long life ahead. This has blossomed since I first saw it for sure. You can think about drinking this in a decade, more or less, but keep it longer for best results, or give it a few hours in a decanter.

Enigmatic nose, seemingly a bit light on first impressions, but it develops a ripe, heady aroma in the glass and then a classic scent of succulent, soft ripe cassis fruit, well defined and backed by fine-grained, linear tannins. Beautifully poised. 2,600 cases were produced. Noval, one of the showpiece estates of the Douro, releases vintages in most years. This wine gives a fine reflection of what is, in fact, a great vintage which was almost a general declaration. It is impressive, ripe with generous black fruits and a fine balance between the spirit and the rich structure and fruit. It is going to mature quickly in the sense that it can be drunk within the next five years. It will also age for several decades. This is very polished in feel, with long, caressing, fine-grained structure that allows plum eau-de-vie, boysenberry puree and blackberry cobbler notes to play out at their leisure. Light anise and ganache hints accent the finish while the fruit blazes through. Rock ’em, sock ’em Port. Best from 2030 through 2045. 2,600 cases made. -JM

Noval, one of the showpiece estates of the Douro, releases vintages in most years. This wine gives a fine reflection of what is, in fact, a great vintage which was almost a general declaration. It is impressive, ripe with generous black fruits and a fine balance between the spirit and the rich structure and fruit. It is going to mature quickly in the sense that it can be drunk within the next five years. It will also age for several decades.

The 2015 Vintage Port is the normal blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cao and Sousao, all from the estate, that spent 18 months in barrel. This full-bodied, rich, opulent effort offers textbook plum and raisined fruits with loads of candied black olives, orange rind, and spice. Despite its richness and depth, it’s surprisingly fresh and lively, with integrated acidity, sensational purity of fruit, and a brilliant sense of elegance. It needs a decade of cellaring and will keep for 3-4 more decades.

This has intense boysenberry, fig and plum reduction flavors, backed by a bramble-filled finish. Youthfully tight and backward, this is a touch more muscular in profile than the '16, though it is still very polished in feel. A brick house in this not-widely-declared vintage.-Non-blind Quinta do Noval vertical (May 2018). Best from 2030 through 2050. 2,600 cases made, 180 cases imported.

The 2015 Vintage Port from Noval was picked from 2 September, stopping for the mid-September rain and restarting on 24 September. It has a tightly wound bouquet with black cherries, eau-de-vie, touches of sage and pencil shavings, light menthol scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly saline entry, fine depth, but not the most powerful Noval in recent years; black pepper becomes more prominent towards the finish. This Port is sleek and seductive, though probably five or six years away from being ready as there is still a bit of toughness on the finish. Tasted at the Quinta do Noval tasting at Spring restaurant in London.