Tightly wound, this red evokes cherry, raspberry, plum, iron and tobacco flavors, with a solid tannic spine giving this support and a firm grip on the lingering finish. Tips a wee bit to the tannins in overall harmony, yet this is complex and long. Best from 2025 through 2042. 2,500 cases made, 1,250 cases imported.

The San Giorgio 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte (with 30,000 bottles made) is a little subdued when compared to the 2016 vintage, and it delivers broad aromas of plummy dark fruit, spice and crushed roses. The wine is mid-weight in texture, but there is a good amount of power packed within, thanks to the wine's structure and its compact fruit.

This opens with aromas recalling dark spice, leather, forest floor and a whiff of coconut. The taut, linear palate starts off with dried cherry, licorice and coffee bean before close-grained tannins jump to the forefront and leave an abrupt, rather astringent finish. Despite the drying tannins, drink sooner rather than later to capture the remaining fruit. Drink 2024-2029.