With vineyards in the west of Saint-Julien, Lagrange produces wines that are polished and elegant. In 2010, that style has been suffused with tannins while also delivering a black currant flavor. The wine is rich and ripe, with just the right amount of tannic structure for the fruit.

Notes of singed alder, graphite and charcoal wrap around the core of intense blackberry paste, warm plum sauce and currant preserves. Turns sleek and racy on the well-knit finish despite the notable grip. Best from 2015 through 2030.

Somewhat of a beast, this monolithic, oaky wine is full-bodied, highly extracted and difficult to evaluate. Some hints of roasted herbs, chocolate, black currant and coffee are present, but the oak dominates, as do the tannins. This wine seems much woodier, and more closed and foreboding than any other St. Julien I tasted. Forget it for 7-8 years and hope for the best.