The 2020 Château Duhart-Milon is a much more concentrated, serious wine. Based on 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Merlot hitting 12.5% natural alcohol, with a pH of 3.91, its deep ruby/plum color is followed by medium to full-bodied aromas and flavors of darker currants, cherries, damp earth, ripe tobacco, and graphite. Beautifully balanced, elegant, and straight-up seamless, it shows the classic, focused style of the vintage and will be a modern day classic from this terroir.

This ripe wine has some serious tannins and rich black fruits. Behind the structure, a swath of black fruits gives the wine concentration and ripeness. Drink this textured wine from 2027.

A firm and racy Duhart with currants, chocolate and walnuts. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a fresh finish. Lovely subtle fruit. A bright finish. Succulent and refined. Savory. Very, very fine. 72% cabernet sauvignon and 28% merlot. Drink or hold.

The most underrated wine in the Lafite stable these days has put in another strong performance with the 2020 Duhart-Milon, as this somewhat cooler, later-ripening site is well adapted to warmer vintages. Unfurling to reveal aromas of cassis, plums, cigar wrapper, loamy soil and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and layered, with polished tannins, terrific depth at the core and a long, sapid finish.

The 2020 Duhart-Milon has a classy, well-defined bouquet, with brambly red fruit, pencil box and scents of autumn leaves, gradually gaining intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with rather dry tannins that render this quite serious at the moment. It has good substance but is missing a bit of brightness and charm at the moment. Even so, I would contentedly cellar this for three or four years because there is potential. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.