Château-La-Gaffelière Saint-Émilion 2014

94-96. Barrel Sample. This is a fine and aromatic wine that has great structure while also considerable elegance and superb balance. Dense tannins are coupled with freshness and bright black-currant fruit, keeping the palate lively. The finish is bright and fruity.

A lovely blackberry puree note leads this off, followed by hints of fig and plum. Alluring licorice and juniper flavors start to fill in, backed by an accent of smoldering tobacco. The structure is persistent but very fine-grained. Best from 2020 through 2030. 4,583 cases made.

The 2014 La Gaffeliere appears to have improved since it's showing in barrel (I did hint at this at the time). The nose is perfumed and slightly floral, certainly well defined with neatly integrated oak, dark fruit emerging with aeration in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly edgy, chalky tannin on the entry, shrouded by plenty of dusky black fruit and a potent, graphite-tinged finish. This is one to watch.