To my palate, the 2018 vintage sometimes feels a little too ripe or baked. I was reminded of those characteristics when tasting the Fèlsina 2018 Fontalloro. There is plenty of dark fruit at its core, but this wine also reveals dry tones of jarred oregano, grilled Mediterranean herb, crushed aspirin and graham cracker. The mouthfeel is pleasantly lean and silky, and perhaps the wine delivers more in terms of length than it does weight or texture. A little more bottle age should help flesh out and soften these results.

A tight, fresh Fontalloro with dark cherry, chocolate and toasted oak. Some walnut, too. It’s full-bodied, yet polished and structured. Sort of shy. But this will develop really nicely with some bottle age. Drink after 2023.

The 2018 Fontalloro is bright, floral and full of energy. In most vintages, Fontalloro is quite open, but the 2018 is especially nervy and taut. That won't be an issue in time, of course, but readers should plan on being patient. Sangiovese is so expressive here. A whole range of floral and savory accents lingers on the close.

This is smoky, with a core of cherry, blackberry and plum flavors. Menthol, wild herbs and iron add accents and though this is supple, there's a solid structure of both bright acidity and moderate, dusty tannins, with fine balance and length. Sangiovese. Best from 2026 through 2042. 3,800 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.