When Geyserville hits in a great vintage, it takes me back to what I originally loved about California wine. Or to that sense of optimism on a spring day when I first visited San Francisco in 1984, to pitch this magazine on publishing services. I didn’t know at the time that I would still be publishing it 40 years later, and I didn’t know how much California wine would change. Or how little the style and intention of Geyserville would change. The team at Ridge manages the vineyard’s generations of vines to produce complex wines like this perfectly ripe 2021, with its dark, resinous scents of marijuana, its deep layers of rich fruit and the fruitiness of detailed tannins. The fresh, herbal complexity is pretty epic and the richness doesn’t stop. What I want from California.

The 2021 Geyserville hits the palate with a burst of dark red/purplish fruit, sweet spice, lavender, chocolate, dried herbs and American oak. I would be in no rush to open the 2021, as it is clearly an infant at this stage. The blend is 76% Zinfandel, 16% Carignane, 6% Petite Syrah and 2% Alicante Bouschet. The 2021 is a powerhouse, that much is pretty clear. (AG) 94+

Tightly focused and briary, this blend offers density without weight. Presents plum and blueberry flavors accented by dill and green peppercorn as this builds tension toward medium-grained tannins. Zinfandel, Carignane, Petite Sirah and Alicante Bouschet. Drink now through 2032

The 2021 Geyserville checks in as 76% Zinfandel, 16% Carignane, and the rest Petite Sirah and Alicante Bouschet. It has a pure, expressive bouquet of fresh plums, figs, mulberries, peppery herbs, leather, and vanilla bean, and it takes some air to show at its best, gaining depth and richness with time in the glass. This medium to full-bodied, spicy, elegant red blend has a touch more oak present than I'm accustomed to, but it has a silky, elegant mouthfeel, nicely integrated acidity, and outstanding length. It's going to benefit from 3-4 years of bottle age.