As in 2016, my favorite of the white parcel selections this year is the 2017 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc (231 cases produced), as it perfectly balances richness and power with refinement and structure. Toasted brioche and citrus marmalade, honey and truffle notes deliver sheer full-bodied, mouth-filling decadence, supported by austere notes of crushed granite, zesty grapefruit rind and cooling brine. Huge and intense yet refreshing, it's the essence of granite-grown Marsanne.

Lastly, the 2017 Ermitage L’Ermite Blanc is another vibrant white that has an exotic, fresh, focused style in its citrus, lime, honeysuckle, lemon curd, and turmeric/celery seed aromas and flavors. Possessing fabulous extract and concentrated and well as both freshness and purity, it needs 2-3 years of bottle age and should keep for two decades or more. All three of these top whites show a dramatically more reductive, backward style that’s going to benefit from cellaring.

Intense, with a wave of green fig, yellow apple, yellow plum and quince fruit laid atop honeysuckle, acacia and quinine notes that ripple underneath. Shows lovely interplay between rich fruit and racy, streamlined minerality in the end. Best from 2023 through 2040.

Limpid yellow-gold. Expansive orange, dried pear, honeydew melon and floral aromas show outstanding clarity and mineral lift. Silky and taut on entry, then fleshier on the mid-palate, offering powerful citrus, pit fruit and candied ginger flavors, along with subtle tarragon and vanilla qualities. Finishes on a resonating pear note, with emphatic mineral cut and excellent focus.