Mirabelle, yeast, chalk and slight nuttiness on this wine's nose promise generosity on the palate. This duly follows, pervaded by ripe lemon zestiness. Although still slightly funky with yeast in places, the wine is lively, profound and smooth. Allow it to come into its own and drink 2022-2040.

A latent stoniness underlines the white peach, apple and lemon fruit in this sleek, balanced white, which lingers with a fresh finish of fruit and mineral. Drink now through 2024.

The 2019 Chablis Vaillons ler Cru seems rather muffled on the nose and lacks the mineralite of its peers. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, but it is missing real complexity and feels a bit subdued on the finish.