Beautiful subtlety on this wine's nose recalls smoky lemon, citrus pith and molten candlewax. The palate also holds these notions, bolstering that lemony waxiness with thick, layered chalkiness and pithy, mouthwatering freshness. This is concentated and bold, offering energy and drive, with a contradictory heat emanating from a cool core. A compelling wine, it needs to calm down a little. Drink 2025-2040.

The 2018 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru felt a tad reduced compared to the other Grand Crus, and this just obscured the terroir expression. The palate also shows a slight reduction, but is redeemed by a fine line of acidity. Then it just loses its way toward a finish that does not deliver the precision or personality of, say, the Vauclesirs or Bougros.

A ripe style, with plenty of peach and apricot flavors, a hint of pineapple and good cut keeping everything focused. There is a touch of heat on the finish, but overall, this is well-balanced and intense. Drink now through 2024.