Taittinger Brut Prelude

The new release of Taittinger's NV Brut Prélude Grands Crus was disgorged last year after six years sur lattes and finished with a dosage of six grams per liter. Unfurling in the glass with notes of fresh peach, brioche, citrus rind and a deft touch of smoky reduction, it's full-bodied, broad and vinous, with a concentrated and muscular but elegant profile, displaying a bright girdle of acidity and a long, penetrating finish. Based on the 2012 vintage and sourced largely from Avize, Mesnil, Mailly and Verzenay, it's an excellent bottling that still flies somewhat under the radar.

A blend of equal Chardonnay and Pinot Noir exclusively from Grand Cru vineyards. It is a rich wine, tightly textured with citrus and tangy acidity. There is a tense core of crispness, with intense fruit and a dry aftertaste. This is a fine bottling that should age further, so drink from 2018.

Well-honed acidity defines rich notes of smoked hazelnut, pear tarte Tatin, lemon meringue and mineral, a focused profile set on the satinlike mousse. Lingering and spiced on the racy finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Drink now. 300 cases imported.