Next up is the 2020 Grattamacco, which really takes things up a notch. A deep ruby red, it offers decadent and harmoniously layered aromas of pristine oak spice, fresh leather, mossy earth, tobacco, and kirsch. Full-bodied and refined, it has a velvety texture, plush tannins, even acidity, and a long finish. This demands to be cellared and will continue to improve if adequately stored over the next two decades and likely beyond. Drink 2026-2046.

The 2020 Grattamacco is an outstanding wine, dark, vibrant and nuanced to the core. Black fruits, lavender, spices, leather, menthol and dried herbs give the 2020 plenty of character and complexity. The 2020 is deep but also wonderfully translucent and one of the finest Grattamaccos I can remember tasting. It has incredible depth and resonance, not to mention a lot of personality

‘This vintage gifted generous fruit with excellent, crisp acidities, alongside clean-edged balsam and pungent Mediterranean scrub,’ said winemaker, Luca Marrone. The grapes are hand-harvested in vineyards with an average age of 25 years. Spontaneous fermentation occurs in 7hl oak vats with a frequent and gentle manual pigeage, enabling long macerations and slow release of only fully ripe and noble tannins. This wine was aged for 18 months in oak barrels and bottled in August 2022. Restrained cassis and Mediterranean herb scents are allied to fresher red fruits and a floral touch. It's very well composed, demonstrating an elegant and juicy style with great integration of oak and youthful, chewy fruit. A Bolgheri to wait for – this is intended for the long haul.

The organic Grattamacco 2020 Bolgheri Superiore Grattamacco is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese fermented in conical oak vats and aged in barrique for 18 months. The vintage is fruit-driven for sure, and this expression shows nice detailing in terms of the quality and structure of the tannins. The bouquet is focused on grilled cherry and mixed berry. You definitely get a warm, earthy quality with black licorice and sweet Mediterranean tones. It should be interesting to see how it evolves. Production is 60,000 bottles.