Gaja Sperss 2015
The 2015 Barolo Sperss is another smoking good 2015 that shows the sunny warmth of the vintage in its massive bouquet of blackcurrants kirsch liqueur red plums Asian spices violets and flowery incense. It reminds me of the incredible 1997 and Barolo doesn't get any more sexy or opulent. This brilliant full-bodied wine has ripe velvety tannins beautiful depth of fruit and a great finish. It needs a solid hour in a decanter if drinking any time soon and will benefit from 5-7 years of bottle age. It should drink brilliantly over the following 25-30 years.
The 2015 Barolo Sperss shows all of the darkness and muscle that are so typical of Serralunga. Black cherry, plum, licorice, incense, gravel, cured meats and scorched earth infuse this potent, backward wine with tremendous character. My impression is that the extraction and oak are all a bit more pushed here relative to the other wines in the range.
In the 2015 Barolo Sperss, you can taste the iron rust and minerality that is so specific to the soils of Serralunga d'Alba where this wine is born. It is very bold and represents the more powerful of these two wines from Barolo. Cerequio is always the more floral, while the Sperss has an immediate cherry and some lingering, bold, blackberry aromas that make a strong impact. However, this wine does not have the austerity of a classic Barolo. Instead it shows a richer texture and it casts a wider net of flavors. Serralunga d'Alba fruit is marked by stronger concentration and ripeness, with a very firm and unyielding quality of tannin that should hold the wine steady as it moves through its aging evolution. This is a truly beautiful albeit brawny Nebbiolo.
Aromas of chopped mint, rose and red berry mingle with whiffs of French oak and menthol. The firm, full-bodied palate offers dried cherry, pomegranate, licorice, espresso and tobacco alongside tightly wound, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2023-2030.