A blend put together by Bevan from the single vineyards, the Ontogeny cuvée is year-in, year-out one of the greatest values in Cabernet Sauvignon. His 2019 Ontogeny is no exception, revealing a dense purple hue as well as rock star notes of crème de cassis, violets, tobacco leaf, and chocolate. It’s a big, classic Bevan wine and has remarkable purity, silky, polished tannins, and not a hard edge to be found. Don’t miss it!

The bargain in the Bevan lineup is the 2019 Ontogeny Red Wine, which is a Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend that includes small amounts of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Featuring lovely notes of ripe cherries, celery seed, cinnamon and cedar, it's complex and full-bodied, with an attractive silky-velvety texture and a long, red-fruited finish. Approachable now, it should still be drinking well for close to two decades.

The 2019 Ontogeny is another tremendous wine in this range. In fact, the 2019 is one of the very best Ontogenys I can remember tasting. Rich, sumptuous and unapologetically brash, the 2019 is a total rock-star. A touch of Malbec adds exuberance to the fruit, as if these wines needed any more richness. For readers who want to know what the fuss is about Bevan, Ontogeny is the place to start!