The 2014 Brunello di Montalcino (with 480,000 bottles produced) reveals a pragmatic, no-nonsense approach to this challenging vintage. The wine makes good on a promise to deliver the cornerstone characteristics of Brunello including wild berry aromas with grilled herb, spice and forest floor. This vintage is not known for its intensity or thickness, and in fact the wine is mild and composed in personality. However, it is also silky and accessible with a very fine but firm tannic structure that is stitched in carefully like lacework at the back.

This is broad, with cherry, leather, earth and tobacco flavors, supported by lively acidity and dense tannins. More savory than fruity, this comes together on the moderately long finish, showing accents of iron and soy. Better than previously reviewed. Drink now through 2028.

Good full red. Pungent aromas of dark berries and herbs are strongly marked by notes of green bell pepper. Juicy and intense flavors of strawberry and dark cherry are accented by pungent herbs and flowers. Just a little too green on the back end for my taste, although the dusty tannins are ripe enough. Closes short and one dimensional. In this difficult year Banfi's Poggio alla Mura is a wildly better wine.