Olivier Leflaive PULIGNE MONTRACHET 1ST Cru Les Folatieres 2017
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|Region||France, Burgundy, Puligny-Montrachet|
Ripe peach and citronella flavors mingle with smoky vanilla butterscotch and pastry notes in this big muscular white. All the elements are still a little disparate on the finish but this should come together in a year or so. Best from 2021 through 2030. —B.S.
Reviewed by William Kelley Issue Date 27th Nov 2019 Source End of November 2019 The Wine Advocate The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières (Récolte du Domaine) is showing superbly wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of white flowers fresh peach grapefruit zest warm bread and toasted nuts. On the palate the wine is medium to full-bodied deep and concentrated with an enveloping attack that segues into a tight-knit core before concluding with a long intense finish. This is emphatically a young Folatières and a decade of bottle age will be rewarded with additional complexity and textural plenitude even if the outgoing style of vintage means that it could be enjoyed sooner. It derives from vineyards that were formerly farmed and vinified by Domaine Leflaive. The 2017 is a great success for Olivier Leflaive and the house's able winemaker Franck Grux. While the scale of this important négociant house sometimes wins it short shrift from Burgundy collectors the truth of the matter is found in the glass. The whole range this year is very solid indeed and with Leflaive's "Récolte du Domaine" range Grux has evidently pulled out all the stops to produce wines that can confound the prejudices of even the most skeptical. Many of these bottlings are derived from Olivier Leflaive's share of the Domaine Leflaive vineyards which only recently reverted to him and these cuvées in particular are worth every effort to seek out.
There is a whiff of the exotic to the spicy acacia blossom white peach and dried apricot-infused aromas. There is both better volume and mid-palate density to the caressing but punchy medium-bodied flavors that exude a hint of minerality on the clean very dry and lingering finish where a hint of wood emerges. This is already good and is potentially excellent.