The 1998 Run Rig is a phenomenal wine. An inky/blue/purple color is followed by an incredibly intoxicating, endearing bouquet of peaches, honeysuckle, blackberries, and spring flowers, full-bodied, concentrated flavors that show slightly more depth and length than the 1997, and more velvety tannins than the 1996. This prodigious offering should continue to evolve for another decade or more. Torbreck’s flagship wine, the Run Rig, is made from 40- to 120-year-old Shiraz vines with some co-fermented Viognier (usually around 3%), tips the scales between 14-15% alcohol, and is aged 30 months in French oak. In contrast to the way they taste upon release, neither the 1998 or 1997 Run Rig revealed any oak.

Uncanny, the way the lapel-grabbing plum, berry and exotic spice flavors play out on a remarkably supple and elegant frame, with the fine tannins weaving through the finish so deftly you can easily miss them. A triumph of gorgeous fruit and classy winemaking. Best from 2003 through 2013. 580 cases made.