A candidate for the best white ever made from this estate, the 2016 White is a Rhone variety blend brought up in a mix of concrete tanks, neutral barrels and new French oak. It offers a terrific bouquet of buttered citrus, crushed rocks, orange peel and honeycomb. It has a steely, mineral, salty style, yet packs a punch with its full-bodied mouthfeel, beautiful concentration, vibrant acidity and a great finish. Count me as a fan, and while I love it today, I suspect it’s going to evolve gracefully.

A blend mainly of Roussanne and Viognier, the 2016 White has an alluringly savory nose of lightly browned toast, salted almonds and fresh hay over a core of ripe apricots, poached pears and white pepper. The full-bodied palate has a lovely phenolic grip and seductive oiliness to the texture, with tons of savory-laced stone fruit flavors and great length.